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Magic
mushrooms, strippers, handcuffs, spanking, stealing Slipknots
masks. This can only be Muse in Tokyo
The
view from the top floors of the Tokyo ANA hotel is impressive. beneath
us tokyo sprawls in a dazzling sea of light, flickering neon illuminating
a warren of densely populated streets and alleyways. the vista is
dominated by the orange glow thrown of the 333-metre high tokyo
tower. On one level, the tokyo tower is simply a giant monolith
fashioned in the image of the eiffel tower. on a more metaphorical
level its an iconic symbol of japanese resilience and character,
erected in 1958 as a sign that a nation brought to its knees in
WWII was back on its feet and aiming for the stars. Some 13 metres
taller than its parisian counterpart, the tower was famously snapped
in two by Godzilla on his first trip to the metropolis. Matt Bellamy,
the hotle guest in room 2709, has been in tokyo before but he can
empathise with the famous monsters over-excitement.
I
love this intense, chaotic peak of human evolution, Matt says
passionately, as he peers out across the worlds most vibrant
city. I love intense colours and intense industrial life,
and tokyo to me is city life at its most developed and complex.
to enjoy city life is to truly enjoy being part of the human race.
Bellamy turns from the window, and tugs absent-mindedly at the shock
of red hair framing his chiselled features as he slumps into a chair
beside his bed. Running away and hiding in a big house in
the countryside is denying what you are, denying that you are human,
he says with a smile. In saying that, Ill probably be
doing that in 20 years. But right now this is our time to live life.
In
2001 if you have a zest for life,, a hunger for experience and a
well-upholstered bank account, then theres probably no better
place to be than tokyo. Right now the city is glowing with confidence
and vitality, enjoying the sort of cultural renaissance in music,
fashion and art which saw the UK dubbed Cool Brittania
in the wake of Britpop, The Full Monty and labours landslide
general election victory in 1997. Sure, the Asahi News
business pages will tell you that the Nikkei financial index is
hovering perilously close to an all-time low and unemployment, bankruptcy
and suicide statistics are at an all time high. But on Tokyos
streets the energy is both exhilarating and dizzying.
Its
fitting, then, that we should be in japans capitol with a
band who are similarly buzzing. The UK music industry has long taken
it for granted that British bands will be Big in Japan.
But the truth behind this patronising attitude is that, in a country
with twice the population of the UK, the ability to sell-out two
or three 3000-capacity clubs nationwide (a feat most major British
bands would be delighted to achieve) hardly equates to Beatlemania.
Foreign acts account for just five per cent of total album sales
in Japan, and household names in the Western world are hard-pushed
to break into the Japanese top 10.
Muse
havent cracked Japan yet, but theyre set
to become Britains most successful musical export in years
here. The Devon trios new album Origin Of Symmetry may have
peaked at Number 19 on the national charts, but it debuted at Number
one on the countrys international chart and has already matched
sales of their debut album Showbiz in just two weeks.
These are very encouraging signs. The success of the album
has taken me by surprise to be honest, Matt Bellamy admits.
I was pretty aware that this album was difficult to swallow
compared to Showbiz and I thought we were taking a bit
of a risk. But whats big in England is most derogatory, simple
bollocks and we couldnt settle for that
For
Bellamy and his bandmates Chris Wolstenholme and Dom Howard, Tokyo
is the final stop on a week-long Japanese promotional tour. Muse
were originally invited out here by their record company to play
low-key acoustic gigs in front of invited audiences. But somewhere
along the line this plan was altered in favour of the trio playing
three proper gigs for competition winners and the die-hard
fans who snapped up the initial copies of Origin of Symmetry. Earlier
this week, the band played shows at the 300-capacity Quattro clubs
in Osaka and Nagoya and on the day we arrive in Japan theyre
set to play for three-thousand fans at the Zepp club. We meet up
with the band backstage at the Zepp; a rather nondescript building
in the shadow of a huge ferris wheel which forms part of a multi-functional
amusement park named Palette Town on the edge of Tokyo Bay. Under
the unwavering gaze of an early 70s Mick Jagger poster, the
trio are lounging around a sparsely-decorated dressing room. Six
or seven unopened cartons of Chinese food sit on a table in the
centre of the room, where tour manager Andy taps methodically on
his laptop. With the remainder of the crew readying the bands
equipment onstage, the only other person is the bands mate
Tom, who is uploading video footage of the previous days activities
onto a laptop for a future transmission on the Muse TV website.
Weve arrived as Muse are about to begin a TV interview for
three channels - Japanese MTV, Channel A and The Music 272. In the
adjacent dressing room - identically furnished save for an old Led
Zeppelin poster on the wall - Muses Japanese translator, their
record companys TV plugger and a three-man TV crew wait patiently.
This
being the bands fifth day of promo interviews theyre
familiar with the drill by now. Their translator will ask them a
question in English, listen patiently to their answers while jotting
down the occasional note and then repeat the answer in Japanese.
At least, thats the theory: on occasions the translator has
admitted that hes been creative with his translations.
Today when Bellamy is asked how he got a certain sound on new track
Space Dementia - because hey, these things are important
to Japanese Muse fans - he reveals that he put a piano through
a Big Muff. He then insists that his translator repeat his
answer fully when the official translation seemingly
omits name-checking the vintage guitar FX pedal. Id wager
good money that Matts reference to the huge balloons Muse
use in their stage show as massive Johnnies will not
survive intact on Japanese TV either.
Some
questions are relatively straightforward (ie Please explain
the concept behind your new video, Bliss ), while
others probe a little deeper (How would you explain the aspects
of originality on your music?). The band take it all in their
stride with good grace, despite the fact that with the air-conditioning
in the room turned off to keep noise to a minimum the room is uncomfortably
hot. Matt, Muses most vocal member, tends to repeat questions
to himself before answering in a flurry of fast-paced, occasionally
rambling, words punctuated with sporadic giggling. Throughout, he
amuses himself by surreptitiously making hand signals behind Doms
head. After half-an-hour the (literal) grilling is complete. As
Chris lopes off to change his perspiration-soaked shirt Matt steps
into the air-conditioned corridor for a breather.
Interviewers
here study every interview youve ever done in every country
and theyll pick up on the most throwaway comments and ask
you questions about them, he notes as the crew pack their
cameras away. My favourite questions here have been Why
did your parents split up? and Are you trying to start
a new religion?. People here seem to want to believe
that were very spiritual and in touch with God. One girl came
up to me in an interview and said Matthew, Id like to
have another conversation with you about your thoughts on space
and mathematics. I want to understand. I think she thinks
that Im some sort of Einstein genius when I dont know
what Im talking about half of the time.
Japan
is full of surprises, he continues with a laugh. We
did some TV shows earlier in the week and we had to answer questions
from fans which had been pre-recorded on video. One girl came on
the screen to say that because of my lyrics I must be good with
women. Then she popped up from behind the sofa, sat beside me and
started asking about my abilities as a lover to my face. I
didnt know what to say, the singer adds, in a tone which
blends a knowing smirk with feigned outrage. To ensure that surprises
are kept to a minimum during tonights show, the end of promotional
duties means the start of Muses soundcheck. Which means that
we get an opportunity to check out the venue. The Zepp looks pretty
much identical to similar-sized places across the world, being uniformly
painted black, but there are crush barriers every few feet to ensure
crowd safety. The floor of the venue is covered with 16 huge balloons,
which resemble the terrifying omnipresent spheres from 60s
cult TV show The Prisoner but actually serve a much
less sinister purpose in Muses stage show. Save for a few
petals wrapped around Bellamys mike-stand, the stage is minimally
decorated with just one guitar amp and one bass amp. Matt reveals
that the local crew had set up a wall of Marshall amps for him to
use, an offer the singer declined because it looked a bit
Status Quo.
Matt
toys around with some Baroque keyboard scales while waiting for
Dom and Chris. Then the band quickly run through a guitar-less version
of Bliss, Plug in Baby and an extended jam
of Citizen Erased. Satisfied with the clear, punchy
sound, the vocalist and bassist head back to the hotel while Dom
Howard settles for having a quick sleep in the dressing room. We
leave him to it.
We
return to the club just before six oclock when the band are
due to take the stage. Zepp is packed out with a young audience
clutching Muse CDs and posters, plus fluorescent pink Muse
watches which double-up as their ticket for the show. Madonnas
Music album is pumping out of the sound system as Muses
road crew ready the stage, and theres a genuine sense of excitement
in the air, even if the noise levels never rise above a dull hum.
Not a single person in the venue is drinking alcohol: then again
at 800 Yen (around £5) for a bottle of beer this is not entirely
surprising. At 6:05 the intro tape stops and Muse walk onstage to
open their show with Micro Cuts. The air is immediately filled with
screams of excitement as half the audience run towards the stage,
rendering those strategically placed crash barriers obsolete. A
huge cheer erupts when Bellamy steps out form behind his keyboard
to fire up the main riff to New Born, and from the off
you can see how psyched Muses frontman is as he throws himself
around tearing outrageous solos from his guitar. An awed hush falls
upon the room for the fragile, understated Unintended,
but as Plug in Baby and Muscle Museum lead
us into the home stretch, Bellamys announcement Im
happy to be here and were coming back for a tour in November
gets the nights biggest cheer.
As
the set climaxes with the bands new single Bliss,
the giant balloons are dropped from the balcony at the sides of
the venue and the whole place goes mad as Matt punctures the balloons
with his guitar, showering rice paper confetti upon the crowd. Chris
stage-dives into the crowd. matt and Dom make some extravagant bows
and by the time the feedback dies away the crowd are already queuing
politely for the exit. It is just 7:30pm. The first time we
played here we were a bit afraid about being too over-the-top onstage,
Matt laughs as he rehydrates with mineral water back in the dressing
room. At one point I made some move with my guitar and the
whole crowd seemed to gasp as though shocked. It was like there
was canned applause between songs. But every time we come back its
better. Tonight just kicked off - we had crowd surfing and everything.
I think Japanese audiences just need to feel comfortable with you,
and then theyre as excited as audiences anywhere.
We
leave the band to cool off. Later there will be a meet-and-greet
session, predominantly with attractive female fans, many of whom
will tail the band back to our 35th floor hotel bar where we reconvene
to plan after-show festivities. After a few swift expensive drinks
a decision is made to visit a local dance music club. The band are
mobbed once again by fans at the hotel doors, as the remainder of
our party - Japanese record company rep Junko, press officer Mel,
K! photographer James, the bands translator, my girlfriend
Hiroko (also my translator), Tom, Andy, crew guys Glenn and Paul
and I - pile into minibuses to go to a club. This being the final
working night of a successful trip, both band and crew are in high
spirits - a state of mind assisted my magic mushrooms consumption.
The club is packed, loud and fun and there is no shortage of attractive
young Japanese women happy to dance with the off-duty gajiin (foreigners
- literally outside people).
Japanese
blokes are very protective of their girls, even if theyre
not going out with them, Matt notes as he sips his beer casually.
Every time Tom and I chatted with a girl the other night,
some big guy would come over and put his arm around her and look
at us like, Fuck off. But then girls would come to you
and its
er, difficult. That said, it would be wrong
not to pretend that this tour has not been without the occasional
romantic result. I met a girl and we couldnt speak the
same language at all, so we had to rely on body language to communicate,
the singer smiles. I think I communicate better without words.
I dont mean that in a sleazy way, Im just quite expressive
and use my hands a lot when I talk. Theres something satisfying
about making that human connection with someone regardless of your
backgrounds.
As
the night passes a fine time is had by all, with crew members free-styling
over the DJs beats and Dom and Chris pogo-ing enthusiastically
to an electro version of The Beatles Hey Jude.
But at 3am Junko tells us weve been asked to leave. No-one
seems to know why, but like good little gajiin we do as were
told. Besides, this jet-lag is a bitch.
The
following morning as we sit waiting in the hotel lobby for the band,
theres still some confusion as to why last nights festivities
were cut short. That is, until someone suggests that the fact one
of the crew had his cock out and was rolling around the floor wrestling
a table might have been a contributory factor. When Matt, Dom and
Chris appear, with sunglasses firmly in place, we learn that their
night ended - much later than ours - with a group bundle
in the hotel corridors, and Matt spazzing out in hysterics
on the floor of one of the lifts, to the consternation of other
shocked guests. Well blame that on the mushrooms shall we?
Sustenance is required, but sadly our intentions of going for a
Japanese meal are foiled, when we discover that both the Japanese
restaurants are closed, and will remain so despite sushi fan Matt
confidently settling down at a table. Youd think theyd
put a sign outside, he mutters, walking out of restaurant
number two - past a two-foot high sign saying Closed
in Japanese.
We
settle for a Chinese restaurant, and orders are placed for spicy
prawns with noodles (Dom and Chris) and a Curry Set
(Matt). The last time Kerrang! sat down with Muse was two months
ago, when I was dispatched to Copenhagen to do an on-the-road feature.
The resulting piece, detailing tha bands enthusiasm
for rock n roll debauchery, took a lot of people by
surprise. The message board on Muses official website is still
full of heated debate about the bands attitude to female fans
and drugs
with many fans suggesting that their cherubic idols
couldnt possibly have got up to such antics. Before I left
for Japan some of my colleagues expressed surprise that the band
were willing to talk to me again
and to be honest I had some
nagging doubts. Such fears proved to be unfounded. The fact that
Im here in the first place is a pretty clear indication of
the truth of the previous feature, and Matts first words to
me when we meet on this trip are Nice piece. When, as
our food arrives, I ask Dom whether the revelations in the feature
had landed him in any hot water he looks genuinely bemused and utterly
concerned. If you knew how many bands in these pages whinge and
moan about perceived slights and quotes being taken out of
context youd understand how cool it is to meet a band
like Muse.
The
truth is that, after a full year answering tiresome questions about
the state of the indie nation, and their debt to Radiohead
and Jeff Buckley, Muse are happy to finally be seen as a proper
rock band
with all the baggage that entails. And now theyre
confident to be themselves - three young lads with no-one to answer
to and the World at their feet. Lets face it, the Devon trio
are increasingly standing out as the UKs only genuine contenders
for making international waves. In addition to their success in
Japan, Origin of Symmetry has charted well across Europe
and the bands sense of ambition or heroic self-belief has
marked them out as a different class to their peers. Over
here and in Europe people find the biggest British bands quite bland
and dull and they respect bands who make more experimental, emotional
music, Matt notes. This album has given me the confidence
to push things further. If the Japanese are sold on Muse,
then the feeling is mutual. The band consider this one of their
favourite countries to visit.
The
first time we came here it was totally surreal, says Matt.
Everything is different here. But I really like Japanese culture
and Japanese people and I always look forward to coming back.
In common with all visiting bands, Muse have been showered with
gifts - including home-made rings, kimonos and foot massagers -
on their trip. The trip have also been given more original
gifts by fans offering presents based on their artistic interpretations
of Muse songs and lyrics. In Nagoya they received little lanterns
and kaleidoscopes to symbolise Darkshines, while other
fans offered painted cloths adorned with interpretations of the
song Feeling Good. The devotion, generosity and loyalty
shown by Japanese music fans to their idols is legendary. One girl
who has been to practically every Muse gig in the UK and Japan is
there in the bands hotel lobby every morning when they leave
and is still there at night when they return. Someone points out
that this means that simply saying Hello to the band
twice a day is the highlight of her day.
Matt
contemplates this for a moment. Not right, is it? he
says with a smile. Last time it was worse though because we
were checking into hotels with our own names. The singer is
booked into the ANA hotel as Mike Hunt (say it aloud quickly and
the juvenile joke will be apparent).
But
in Japan fans are respectful - they never cross that line of invading
your personal space or hassling you. Meeting the band has,
however, been too much for some fans. In Osaka two school
girls who were the nieces of our record company guy had little presents
for us, Dom explains. So they walked into the room fine,
but when they saw us they just lost it. They were gasping for air
and having real trouble. Within minutes Dom and Chris are
similarly gasping, as the prawns and noodles dish theyve ordered
is so spicy it prompts involuntary gasps of Jesus! from
the duo, who immediately have beads of sweat on their brows like
long-lost relatives at a lottery winners funeral. Worse still,
attempts to soothe burning tongues with the milky caramel drinks
weve ordered are abandoned when we discover the glasses contain
black tapioca beans which look suspiciously like rabbit droppings.
Tomorrow, Muse will have their first free day since their arrival.
Chris plans to spend the day getting his son Alfies name tattooed
on his arm in Japanese characters. Matt insists the bassist should
have the tattoo done in the traditional manner with a bone hammer
and chisel rather than an ink gun.
Thatd
be a proper story, he enthuses. Youll be taking
on a proper part of Japanese culture by getting Japanese letters
done so you may as well get it done Japanese style. Doms
plans for tomorrow stretch to little more than a quest for nice
shirts. And Matt? Ive been told about Japanese rope
bondage clubs where you watch girls being lowered up and down by
levers. Id be quite into seeing that
After
lunch we visit the nearby Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine honouring
Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken, who presided over
Japan from 1868-1912 during a period when Japan enjoyed unprecedented
prosperity and major technological and cultural advances. Our talk
en route to the shrine centres around fanny lickers
employed by Empresses in ancient China, which leads to a discussion
of the origins of the word hysteria. Matt reveals that
in Victorian England hysterical women could be cured
by doctors who would relieve their tension by masturbating them.
Nice work if you can get it. Like so much of Tokyo, the original
Meiji shrine (built in 1920 after the deaths of the Emperor and
Empress in 1912 and 1914 respectively) was destroyed by US bombs
during WWII. But the present shrine (completed in 1958) is undeniably
beautiful. Its a little disconcerting to find Coca-Cola-sponsored
tables and chairs at a café by the entrance to this spiritual
place, but the shrines serenity is humbling.
We
went to some temples in Osaka and Nagoya when we came to Japan last
time, says Matt quietly. There were lots of girls and
young women with their faces painted white praying and chanting.
It was, he says with a theatrically arched eyebrow,
just about the hottest thing Ive ever seen. No
sooner have we passed under the huge cypress Torii (gate) which
marks the entrance to the shrine, than the band unwittingly commit
a faux pas by sitting down on the threshold of the shrine for photographs.
This is considered both bad luck and deeply offensive by our hosts,
a fact emphasised when a grey-uniformed security guard shoos the
trio to their feet. Its lucky, really, that he hadnt
seen them two minutes earlier when at a font for ablutions,
Matt threw a ladle-full of water, traditionally used to purify your
hands and mouth before entering the temple, into Doms face
to everyones great amusement.
By
the main shrine building, women in white robes and traditional tabi
(split toe socks) and sandals sell fortunes at 100 Yen a pop. For
800 Yen you can also buy pieces of wood on which wishes are written
before being hung alongside hundreds of similar wooden items on
a Ofuda wish board. At the main shrine you are supposed to honour
the Shinto Gods by bowing twice, clapping your hands twice, and
then bowing once more. Nowhere does it say that youre supposed
to exit the shrine with a wave and a cheery shout of Bye God
as Matt does, but we seem to get away with it without being cursed.
Touch wood.
After
the beatific calm of the shrine, were pitched into Tokyos
other extreme - the chaotic bustle of Shibuya. This is the face
of Japan that Westerners know best - hi-tech, over-crowded and incredibly
noisy. Its an area which traditionally causes Western journalists
to blather on about Tokyos similarity to Blade Runner.
Shibuya is seemingly populated almost solely by the worlds
greatest consumers, teenage Japanese girls, at least 50 per cent
of whom seem to be screaming into dinky little mobile phones at
any given time as they duck and weave into endless multi-storey
department stores. Rather bizarrely, in this cauldron of consumerism,
a Tannoy blasts out the election manifesto of the Japanese Communist
Party.
The
band are approached for handshakes and autographs by a couple of
fans as they pose for photographs and then were off for a
quick trawl around the shops. With nine of us wandering about the
maze of shops this is a recipe for disaster, but fortunately Chris
height and Matts stand-out hair colour ensure we keep the
group intact. Time restraints mean we dont get to properly
indulge our consumer instincts. However, weve more luck in
neighbouring Harajuka, where a stroll up the teenage
paradise that is Takeshita yields two new tops for Matt - a tight,
black PVC number he describes as Marilyn Manson-ish,
and a see-through black top with comically overlong sleeves which
may be coming to a stage near you in the future.
We
all marvel at the cool traffic robots with mechanical arms which
signal motorists past roadworks. Clearly, these wouldnt last
two minutes on any UK street. If you had one of those in your
bedroom you could get a shop mannequin and have her bent over with
her skirt raised and that robot behind her. It would look like he
was spanking her all day, Matt says brightly. We laugh nervously
and drive back to our hotel in silence.
Roppongi
is Tokyos equivalent of Londons Leicester Square or
New York Times Square: a gaudy, tacky, rip-off fleshpot thats
only visited by drunken salarymen on the look-out for some strip
club action or tourists with more money than sense. Minus Chris,
who has opted for a quiet night, we head there for dinner after
discovering that the £100-a-plate hotel restaurant where the
band dined last night on lobster and still wriggling shrimps is
closed. Besides, weve been told about a restaurant called
Alcatraz where you eat in mock-up prison cells and are waited upon
by Japanese girls in short prison guard uniforms. And the minute
that the PVC-clad girl greeting us on the door slaps handcuffs on
my girlfriend and I before leading us to our cell we know weve
made the right decision.
Alcatraz
is a splendidly surreal, thoroughly entertaining eatery. The restaurants
card promises food, cocktail and neat dimension, and
we soon realise the truth of the latter as the eight of us squeeze
into our small, cramped cell. There is a noose suspended above our
table and a shadow of a praying man on the back wall. Our ears are
continually assaulted by horrific cheesy dance music and the menu
initially doesnt look overly appealing - in keeping with the
prison theme one drink is titled Urine. But as plate
after plate of communal food - tuna sashimi donburi, pizza, red
snapper Thai spring rolls and wafer thin barbecued cows tongue
- is washed down with beer and sake and cocktails it all makes a
certain sense. The fact that weve all supplemented our diet
with a freshly-purchased bag of Mexican magic mushrooms only adds
to the fun. Conversation is relaxed and easy
despite occasional
visual distractions provided by our charming dominatrix host. We
talk about Muses hilarious live TV performances promoting
their last single New Born.
I
used to be like, Fuck off, were not miming,
Matt admits, but now Ive relaised we can have fun with
it and put our own stamp on everything we do. Perhaps the
most surreal part of the night is when Matt entertains us with a
story about Dom losing it at a European festival after
donning Corey Slipknots mask. The obvious question is what
the hell was Dom doing with the mask in the first place.
Oh,
the Slipknot guy threw it to this girl at the side of the stage
after they played because he must have wanted to impress her,
says Matt. Unfortunately for him she wanted me so we got it.
I think Dom got possessed by the spirit of Slipknot when he put
it on. He was running around screaming. After dinner, fearing
a rip-off of epic proportions we abandon plans to check out Roppongis
strip clubs - tempting though street girls invitations to
come in if you want to pinch some nipples obviously
are - and settle for a quiet drink in the Tokyo Jazz Café.
Were the only customers and its just that little bit
too chilled out. However, the same can not be said for the final
bar we visit, which turns out to be a late-night watering hole for
the Japanese and Australian girls working at the neighbouring strip
clubs and hostess bars.
Here
Tom busts a few moves on the dance floor with a middle-age Japanese
man clad from head to toe in white. The rest of us settle for necking
cocktails, and watch the off-duty strippers grinding together in
a marvellously filthy manner while dragging drunken Japanese businessmen
around by their braces. Tremendous. At five in the morning we stumble
back out onto the street, our good spirits only slightly dampened
by the fact that we have to depart for our flight home in four hours.
Every time we come to Japan we just have a better time,
Dom says with a smile as we trudge back home through
the blinding early morning sunshine. And I for one cant
wait to come back.
Five
things Muse love about Japan
(which turns out to be what matt
loves about japan
)
Food-Matt:
I love my raw fish, sashimi in particular. And the restaurants here
are much better than in England. The way that food is served here
is more intricate and interesting, and I love the whole ritual that
comes with dining out here.
Women-Matt:
Japanese girls are really sweet. Ive had some very good experiences
here and Ive met one girl in particular whos fucking
lush. I fall in love every three months or so, and its happening
again!
Licensing
Laws-Matt: You can drink to five in the morning here which is obviously
a good thing. And then if thats not good enough you can get
beer from vending machines along the street. The nightlife can be
a bit quiet mid-week but it really kicks off at weekends. We went
to one club in Nagoya and ended up dancing on tables in front of
the DJ crowd-surfing.
Magic
Mushrooms-Matt: Theyre legal here which is very, very cool.
Japan is very surreal and very intense anyway and doing mushroom
just intensifies the whole Japanese experience.
Shopping-Matt:
I bought the best gadget of my life on this trip - an MP3 player
which can play three hours of music. And I can never find any clothes
to fit me at home so I end up buying girls clothes but here
everyone is my size and Im spoilt for choice.
Big
thanks to ~*Kaz*~ and James @ the muse-official.com message board
for typing this up :)
Paul
Brannigan
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