Through the Morvan -
1889
"Of the four hundred
and fifty passengers who crossed with us from Dover to
Calais in August 1888, we lost every trace when quitting
the Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée line at La Roche. Writing a
hundred years ago, the great agriculturist, Arthur
Young,
(1)
gave his countrymen
the following excellent piece of advice, which, it need
hardly be said, has been generally neglected from that
day to this:
‘It may useful to those who see no more of France than
by once passing to Italy, to remark that if they would
view the finest parts of France they should land at
Dieppe, and follow the Seine to Paris, then take the
great road to Moulins, and thence quit it for Auvergne,
and pass to Viviers, the Rhône, and so by Aix to Italy.
By such a variation from the frequented road the
traveller might suffer for want of good inns, but would
be repaid by sight of a much finer and more singular
country than the common road by Dijon offers, which
passes in a great measure through the worst parts of
France.’
The Suffolk squire who rode through France on the eve of
the Great Revolution, in spite of his conscientious
desire to see all that the country had to show, lost
much from want of roads, maps, and any kind of
accommodation. Nowadays, as will be seen from the
following pages, good food and good beds await the
traveller in the most remote districts; but in vain!
Ninety-nine tourists out of a hundred remain of the poet
Shelley’s opinion – there is nothing to see in France –
and hurry on as fast as the express can carry them to
Geneva."
(1)
Arthur Young (1741 - 1820) agriculturalist, traveller
and writer.
(2) Percy Bisshe
Shelley (1792 - 1822) one of the greatest English
poets.
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